The triumph of costume designers: A new era of pay equity in Hollywood
In a landmark victory for costume designers in the film and television industry, a new contract negotiated by the International Alliance of Theatrical Stage Employees (IATSE) has resulted in a significant wage increase of over 40%. This achievement brings the scale rate for costume designers in line with their creative peers, marking a pivotal moment in the fight for pay equity.
The long road to pay equity
For decades, costume designers have been some of the least compensated professionals in the entertainment industry. Despite their critical role in shaping the visual narrative of films and TV series, their pay has lagged behind that of other department heads such as production designers and directors of photography. This disparity is particularly stark given that 87% of costume designers are female, while their higher-paid counterparts are predominantly male.
The Pay Equity Now movement, spearheaded by the Costume Designers Guild (CDG), has been instrumental in addressing these discrepancies. The movement encouraged costume designers to demand equal pay and share their salary information to foster transparency. This collective effort culminated in the recent contract negotiations, which have been hailed as a historic achievement.
A statement from the Costume Designers Guild
Terry Gordon, president of the Costume Designers Guild, expressed her elation at the outcome of the negotiations. “Following a six-year, highly coordinated effort, our clearly defined CDG proposal demanding pay parity with our design team colleagues was recognized and rewarded,” she said. “This has been an unprecedented contract achievement for our Guild. Our members were clear and united in their priorities.”
Ariyela Wald-Cohain, Emmy award-winner and Co-Chair of the Pay Equity Now Steering Committee, echoed Gordon’s sentiments. “We are elated by the outcome of the current negotiations to achieve pay parity scale rates for Costume Designers with their creative peers,” she said. “Our hope is to continue fostering a more inclusive and equitable industry for future generations of artists across all crafts.”
The significance of screen credit
In addition to the wage increases, the new contract also mandates screen credit for costume designers. This ensures that their contributions are appropriately recognized in the credits of all motion pictures. The memorandum of agreement specifies that screen credit must be given in a prominent place, whether in the main credits or end titles for theatrical motion pictures. For television motion pictures, the placement of the screen credit is at the producer’s discretion and may be on a shared card.
Gordon remarked on the importance of this achievement, stating, “The long-awaited appropriate screen credit placement ensures that producers agree screen credit will be given to Costume Designers on all motion pictures who have rendered their services for the production.”
Wage increases for half-hour TV shows and assistant costume designers
While the new contract marks significant progress, there is still work to be done. Costume designers working on half-hour television shows and assistant costume designers did not achieve full pay parity. However, they did receive substantial wage increases. Costume designers on half-hour TV shows received a 12% increase in the first year, 4% in the second year, and 3.5% in the third year. Assistant costume designers received a 10% increase in the first year, 7.5% in the second year, and 7.5% in the third year.
Wald-Cohain acknowledged the progress made but emphasized the need for continued efforts. “We didn’t achieve pay parity for costume designers on half-hour TV and we didn’t achieve pay parity for our Assistant Costume Designers. As Terry said, we still have work to do,” she said.
A new era for costume designers
The recent contract negotiations represent a significant step forward for costume designers in the film and television industry. The wage increases and mandatory screen credit are a testament to the tireless efforts of the Costume Designers Guild and the Pay Equity Now movement. As the industry continues to evolve, it is crucial to ensure that all creative professionals receive the recognition and compensation they deserve.
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As we celebrate these achievements, it is essential to reflect on the journey that brought us here and the work that still lies ahead. The fight for pay equity is far from over, but the recent gains for costume designers are a promising sign of progress.