The evolution of Lady Mariko in ‘Shōgun’: A journey of transformation
In the first episode of FX’s “Shōgun”, Lady Mariko, portrayed by Anna Sawai, appears as a reserved and cautious character. Set in 1600 feudal Japan, the series, based on James Clavell’s novel, introduces Mariko as she is tasked with translating for Lord Toranaga (Hiroyuki Sanada) and Blackthorne (Cosmo Jarvis), a ship’s captain who finds himself in a society on the brink of war.
A reluctant beginning
Initially, Mariko is wary of Blackthorne and the new responsibilities thrust upon her. She is determined to serve her Lord and help him understand the foreigner, even if it means stepping out of her comfort zone. This initial reluctance is a significant part of her character’s journey.
Visual storytelling through costumes
Costume designer Carlos Rosario played a crucial role in visualizing Mariko’s transformation. In the early episodes, Mariko’s costumes are predominantly black and white, symbolizing her emotional numbness following the assassination of her family. Rosario found inspiration in a line from episode six where Buntaro (Shinnosuke Abe) describes Mariko as “always being ice.” This description guided Rosario in creating outfits that reflected her initial state of being spiritless and heartless.
“The first costumes have a black and gold curve, representing snow covering grass,” Rosario explains. “It was symbolic of Mariko’s emotional state at that moment.”
Symbolism in design
Rosario used various symbols in Mariko’s costumes to reflect her emotional journey. The crane prints on her formal kimono, or uchikake, symbolize freedom and her eventual emotional liberation. The multiple layers of the costumes also represented the entrapment and control experienced by women of that era.
Musical themes and emotional depth
Composer Leopold Ross, along with his brother Atticus Ross, crafted Mariko’s musical theme to reflect her stoicism and poise. They chose a solo flute to represent her delicate yet powerful nature. Japan-based arranger-producer Taro Ishida added traditional Japanese gagaku sounds, allowing the music to evolve with Mariko’s character throughout the series.
“We wanted a melody that sounded very delicate but had room to grow into something grand and powerful,” says Leopold.
A new sense of purpose
As Mariko finds a new connection with Blackthorne and embraces her role as a translator, her costumes begin to incorporate red camellias, symbolizing her opening up to life. The crimson tones become more dominant, and the patterns bolder, reflecting her growing strength and determination.
The climax of transformation
By episodes eight and nine, Mariko’s transformation is complete. She rejects her husband Buntaro’s request to die with him, declaring that death is an escape, not a union. She confronts the warlord Ishido Kazunari (Takehiro Hira) and asserts her independence, stating, “I will never be captive or hostage or confined.”
Cinematic choices
Cinematographer Sam McCurdy made deliberate choices to emphasize Mariko’s empowerment. He rarely placed her eye line below anyone else, ensuring she was always front and center. This visual language underscored her growing autonomy and strength.
“We stripped away the restrictions that we had earlier imposed on her. The camera language around her was always free,” McCurdy explains.
The final battle
In the climactic scenes, Mariko’s costumes become bolder and heavier, almost armor-like. She wears a red, black, and gold uchikake with a butterfly print, symbolizing her transformation. The music reaches its grandest moment as she fights, embodying her defiant spirit.
“When she declares she’s going to commit suicide, it turns into this very defiant groove,” says Leopold.
A journey of empowerment
Rosario notes that Mariko’s journey to empowerment is not linear. By the end, elements of the white seen in her earlier costumes are reintroduced, symbolizing the integration of her past and present selves.
Lady Mariko’s evolution in “Shōgun” is a testament to the power of visual and musical storytelling. Her journey from a reserved and cautious woman to a strong and independent character is beautifully depicted through the meticulous work of the show’s artisans.
For more insights into Lady Mariko’s journey, you can watch the Shōgun trailer.
This article aims to provide a deeper understanding of Lady Mariko’s character arc in “Shōgun”. By exploring the intricate details of costume design, musical themes, and cinematic choices, we gain a richer appreciation of her transformation.