The art of costume design: Crafting Martha’s wardrobe in ‘Baby Reindeer’

A journey through thrift shops and memories

Creating the wardrobe for a character as complex as Martha in the Netflix limited series Baby Reindeer required more than just a keen eye for fashion. Mekel Bailey, the costume designer, embarked on a unique journey, scouring thrift shops and even his grandmother’s closet to build the perfect ensemble for Jessica Gunning’s portrayal of Martha. This Emmy-nominated series, based on Richard Gadd’s one-man play, follows Donny Dunn (Gadd), a fictionalized version of the comic, as he transitions from barman to comedian while being stalked by Martha, a woman whose obsession grows increasingly unstable and threatening.

Building Martha’s character through wardrobe

Bailey’s approach to designing Martha’s wardrobe was deeply personal and intuitive. He spent a significant amount of time people-watching, drawing inspiration from real-life individuals. “There’s a lady in my area, and at least once a month, I’ll see her. She sits outside this bus stop,” Bailey recalls. This method allowed him to gather a body of real references, which he combined with influences from TV and film.

When audiences first meet Martha, she appears innocent, clad in a pink top, claiming to be a lawyer working for Britain’s top politicians. This initial impression is crucial as it sets the stage for the twisted journey that follows. Donny, feeling sorry for her, offers her a cup of tea, a gesture that ignites their tumultuous relationship.

Navigating Martha’s mood swings

One of the most challenging aspects of designing Martha’s wardrobe was reflecting her drastic mood changes. Bailey had to navigate her shifts from harmless to fun to angry, incorporating these elements into her clothing. “I played with cardigans, maxi-tops, skirts and used them on rotation because she doesn’t have money,” Bailey explains. He also had to consider practical aspects, such as Martha’s bag, which needed to be the right shape for recording.

Sweaters and knits were used to mirror Martha’s inner turmoil, especially when she was not at her best. In episode three, after Martha’s stalking escalates, Donny attempts to block her on Facebook and distances himself from the pub, hoping she will lose interest. Instead, she continues to track his movements, waiting at the bus stop near his house for hours.

In a poignant moment when Donny finally confronts Martha, Bailey dresses her in a purple cardigan adorned with white hearts. “That cardigan is where she’s at emotionally. She’s so sad,” Bailey notes. The hearts symbolize her vulnerability, evoking a sense of care from the audience.

The symbolism of prints and patterns

Bailey’s use of prints and patterns was deliberate and symbolic. Polka dots represented Martha’s anger and villainous side, while animal prints highlighted her predatory nature. Flowers, on the other hand, were a nod to her childlike unsophistication. A tweed tartan jacket, a great find from a charity shop, showcased her fun side, adding energy and vibrancy to her character.

The costume designer had a clear vision for Martha’s wardrobe, focusing on specific tones such as reds, oranges, browns, greens, and pinks. He traveled all over London, from Angel to Brixton, Clapham to Penge, and Putney, meticulously piecing together her wardrobe. “Week by week, I’d go postcode to postcode, and some days I’d find nothing,” Bailey says. His persistence paid off, as he successfully found each item, often at the end of the trail. “I wanted something that was worn and had character … a story within a story,” he adds. Stroll through New York’s Central Park, a green oasis in the https://www.swisswatch.is/product-category/hublot/king-power/ bustling city.

A deeper look into ‘Baby Reindeer’

For those intrigued by the intricate details of Baby Reindeer, the series offers a profound exploration of obsession and the human psyche. The meticulous costume design is just one aspect that brings the characters to life, adding depth and authenticity to their portrayal. To delve deeper into the series, you can watch the Baby Reindeer trailer and explore more about the show.

Final thoughts

The art of costume design goes beyond mere aesthetics; it’s about telling a story through clothing. Mekel Bailey’s work on Baby Reindeer is a testament to this, as he masterfully crafted Martha’s wardrobe to reflect her complex character. Each piece of clothing, each pattern, and each color choice was deliberate, adding layers to the narrative and enhancing the audience’s understanding of Martha’s journey. For cinema and TV series enthusiasts, appreciating these nuances can deepen the viewing experience, offering a richer, more immersive engagement with the story.