Inspired design: The Mushroom Influence in ‘Wicked’
When Paul Tazewell embarked on the journey of designing costumes for the highly anticipated musical “Wicked,” he drew inspiration from an unexpected source—mushroom gills. This novel idea sprouted while watching a documentary that revealed the intricate beauty and diversity of mushrooms. Let’s dive into how this unique aesthetic came to shape the visual identity of Elphaba’s dress and more.
The genesis of Elphaba’s dress
Elphaba, played by Cynthia Erivo, is a character who embodies both power and marginalization. Her black dress needed to reflect these complex themes. Tazewell, recognizing Elphaba’s deep connection to nature and particularly her affinity for the animal kingdom, saw an opportunity to let her attire spring from a place of natural robustness and textured elegance.
Tazewell remarked, “She’s an advocate for animals; marginalized, she finds solace in nature more than in people.” With this core thought, he began to shape her look, using the pleated, layered texture of mushroom gills as a metaphor for Elphaba’s depth and multi-faceted personality.
Crafting the magical attire
To bring his mushroom-inspired vision to life, Tazewell experimented with various fabrics. By manipulating felted fabric, gauze, and chiffon, he succeeded in replicating the delicate pleats found on the underside of mushrooms. ”In holding mushrooms and seeing that pleated quality,” he explains, “it became about interpreting that into fabric and texture.”
The result was a dress that not only visually captivated the audience but also felt appropriate for a character who can, quite literally, defy gravity. The choice of materials and their manipulation provided a mesmerizing visual effect that’s deeply rooted in naturalistic design principles.
Revamping Glinda’s iconic look
While Elphaba’s dress was shaped by nature, Glinda, portrayed by Ariana Grande, demanded a more traditional yet nuanced approach. Tazewell sought inspiration from the original 1939 film “The Wizard of Oz,” specifically focusing on Billie Burke’s portrayal of Glinda. He aimed to respect the classic iconography while infusing fresh energy and warmth into the character’s design.
For Glinda’s bubble dress, Tazewell chose a softer pink and a warmer hue, ensuring it stood apart from previous iterations. He crafted a silhouette featuring a structured, hand-beaded, and embroidered bodice that flared into a bell shape. The translucence he incorporated aimed to communicate a “lighter-than-air quality.”
The ensemble incorporated various types of fabric, including crinoline, tulle, and silk organza, and featured an ombre design that darkened towards Glinda’s face. “We added swirling bubbles in the pattern printed onto the organza, with embroidery at the bottom,” Tazewell revealed. This resulted in a dress that felt equally ethereal and timeless.
The intricate art of costume design
Tazewell’s extensive experience across Broadway and film has always involved breathing new life into characters through clothing. His work on productions like Hamilton and West Side Story is a testament to his commitment to intertwining character backstory with visual storytelling.
Costume design in theater and film isn’t merely about clothing actors; it’s about weaving narratives through fabric and texture. By incorporating mushroom gills as both a thematic and aesthetic element, Tazewell exemplifies how seemingly minor details can have a profound effect on the overall storytelling.
Challenges of modern costume design
In an era where audiences are more visually literate than ever, the demands on costume designers have escalated. They must amalgamate historical context, character arcs, and modern sensibilities while ensuring iconic resonance. Tazewell’s approach to “Wicked” makes it evident that successful costume design hinges on the ability to blend old and new, traditional and avant-garde.
The challenge further extends into the materials chosen. How does one achieve the desired texture without compromising the functionality of the costume? Here, the answer lay in the careful selection and manipulation of various fabrics to conjure the mushroom gill effect in a practical yet visually striking manner.
Balancing innovation with homage
Tazewell’s designs for “Wicked” tread the fine line of innovation while paying homage to established visual motifs. For Elphaba, this meant transforming natural elements into a symbolic and functional wardrobe. For Glinda, it involved reimagining an established look while retaining its iconic charm.
These decisions underscore a crucial aspect of costume design — balance. Balancing homage with creativity, tradition with modernity, and visual appeal with narrative function. This equilibrium is perhaps what lends Tazewell’s work its indelible impact on stage and screen alike.
With each thread and pleat, Paul Tazewell’s designs for “Wicked” imbue the characters with layers of meaning, echoing their internal struggles and triumphs. For Elphaba, it’s a dress that mirrors her grounded yet powerful nature. For Glinda, an attire that maintains her ethereal presence while rooting her in a fresh narrative.
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