Transforming tradition: ‘Conclave’ costume design and its artistic nuances

Bringing the grandiosity of the Vatican to the big screen is no small feat. The recently released film Conclave offers a glimpse into the secretive world of the Catholic Church with precise artistic choices that enhance its visual narrative. One of the pivotal contributors to this authentic portrayal is the film’s costume designer, Lisy Christl, renowned for her meticulous attention to detail and historical accuracy.

Redefining the look of cardinal attire

The choice of fabric

One of the paramount changes Christl brought to the cardinal vestments was in the fabric selection. While traditional cardinal attire is typically crafted from lighter materials, Christl opted for a heavier wool. This alteration was not merely cosmetic but served a practical purpose. The denser fabric provided the robes with a more substantial and weighty appearance, enhancing the gravitas of the cardinals on screen.

“The weight of the wool gave the garments a formality and presence that lighter fabrics couldn’t convey,” noted Christl.

Adjusting the color palette

Another significant modification was to the standard bright red typically seen in cardinal robes. Christl took a detailed approach to this, consulting historical attire and seeking to avoid any potential visual fatigue for the audience. After a thorough examination of robes dating from the 15th century to the 1960s, she discovered that older vestments featured darker shades of red.

“I showed the original bright red robe to the director and our DP. The consensus was that it might be visually straining for prolonged screen time,” recalls Christl.

By choosing a darker hue, Christl ensured the color would be softer on the eyes and more suitable for the cinematic experience. This decision was pivotal in creating a cohesive and engaging visual tone for the film.

Symbolism through accessories

The cardinal’s cross

A crucial element of the film’s wardrobe is the cardinal’s cross, which speaks volumes about each character’s ideological stance. Christl utilized this detail to reflect the diverse political and personal backgrounds of the film’s prelates.

“The [common] language is the cross,” Christl explains.

In Conclave, liberal characters, such as those portrayed by Ralph Fiennes and Stanley Tucci, are seen wearing simple silver crosses. This choice underscores their humility and progressive values. On the other hand, characters with more conservative views, like John Lithgow’s and Sergio Castellitto’s, don richer golden crosses, symbolizing tradition and affluence.

These crosses were not mere props but carefully crafted items. They were handcrafted in collaboration with a family workshop in Florence, Italy, ensuring that each piece was imbued with authenticity and artisanal excellence.

Re-imagining Sister Agnes

Isabella Rossellini’s character, Sister Agnes, presented a unique challenge. Christl took creative liberties with her outfit, diverging from typical nun attire. Inspired by the order of nuns responsible for the Casa Santa Marta, Christl designed a distinctive look comprising a blue cape and a black dress. This color choice not only distinguished Sister Agnes on screen but also paid homage to the real-life inspirations.

Additionally, Christl’s innovative touch is seen in Sister Agnes’ scapular, which features added pleats for a sophisticated aesthetic. Each element of her habit was thoughtfully conceived to enhance her character’s visual narrative.

Technical reflections on costume design

Historical accuracy vs. cinematic needs

Costume design in historical films involves a delicate balancing act between authenticity and visual storytelling. In Conclave, Christl managed to strike this balance masterfully. Her decision to use darker shades and heavier fabrics illustrates the nuanced thought process behind creating an immersive historical experience without compromising the film’s aesthetic requirements.

Importance of artisan craftsmanship

The collaboration with Florentine artisans exemplifies the value of traditional craftsmanship in contemporary filmmaking. Such partnerships not only lend credibility to the production but also support and celebrate the heritage of skilled artisans. By integrating handcrafted elements into the costumes, Christl enriched the film’s visual appeal with layers of historical and artistic depth.

In summation, Lisy Christl’s innovative and thoughtful costume design for Conclave highlights the importance of visual detail in storytelling. Each choice, from fabric weight to the symbolism of the crosses, contributes to an enhanced viewing experience that goes beyond mere aesthetics.

Experience the meticulous craftsmanship and historical authenticity in Conclave, currently in theaters, and delve into the profound layers of character and narrative.

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